Amritsar also formerly knows as Ramdaspur is the spiritual and cultural seat of the Sikh religion. “Amrit” meaning “Nectar” and “Sar” comes from “Sarovar” which means pond. It adds up to a pond of nectar. Situated in the Northwest region of India it is in close vicinity to the city of Lahore in Pakistan. It has the rare distinction of agriculturally being the most productive city in India. From the pious Golden temple, historical Jallianwala Bagh to the patriotic & colorful flag lowering ceremony at the Wagah Border. The satiating food and generous dollops of legendary Punjabi hospitality further connive to cast a spell upon the visitor. One way or the other the city is bound to leave you spellbound.
We were longing to visit this city for many years and one day on a hot April afternoon we were comfortably onboard the Shatabdi from Delhi realizing this dream. It was a comfortable 6-hour transit with the warm Indian railway hospitality on board. The city is quite well connected from all the major Airports in India and has International connectivity.
After a comfortable overnight rest in a centrally located hotel it was time to taste the Punjabi cuisine and hospitality and for breakfast Kanha Sweets on Lawrence road was an ultimate choice. A plate of Poori, Sabzi with Laungi(a tangy chutney made out of raw mangoes) the experience shall take your culinary experience to the next level. It was time to head out to explore the city unwinding and preparing for the day that lay ahead. Our next stop was Durga Fruit Cream on Lawrence road. Generous amount of freshly whipped cream mixed with seasonal cut fruits leaves an indelible mark on your taste buds.
Our first tryst with Amritsar immersion started by visiting the Jallianwala bagh. A place that stands witness to the most painful Baisakhi that the city has ever witnessed. It is littered with gunshot marks across and a true hallmark of the resilience with which the society makes a bounce back despite all the tyranny. Lunch at the famous Kesar Ka dhaba in the bylanes of the Golden temple consisted off Lassi topped with dollops of Butter, Aloo paratha, black daal and chana masala with raita. Simple vegetarian food that’s tempered with spices giving it the trademark Amritsari twist.
We were now headed to witness the coveted flag lowering ceremony at the Attari Border. This is popularly also known as Wagah Border. Though the ceremony starts at sunset it is a good idea to reach by 3PM in order to get seats with the closest possible view to the Border Gates. You can drive upto the parking earmarked by the Border Force and then must walk about 800 metres to reach the main enclosure. The atmosphere is electrifying and abundant whiff of patriotism. Border Forces on each side put up a stellar show amongst a sea of humanity (20000+ or more people on each side). BSF and Pakistani Rangers march towards the gates from their respective sides. After the gates are opened, the soldiers salute each other and start lowering the flags. The flags are carefully folded and carried back. The ceremony reaches its apogee with the soldiers returning to the border line for the final handshake and the blowing of the bugle marks the end of the ceremony.
A perfect close to the evening is by biting into succulent piece of grilled fish, meat and chicken at the famous Beera Chicken House and Makhan Fish Centre on Majitha Road.
No trip to Amritsar is complete without a visit to the pious Harmandir Sahib, popularly known as The Golden Temple. Considered to be the holiest site it also is a seat of steadfast faith of Sikhism. The Gurudwara is a witness to multiple incidents but has been rebuilt with higher fervor and grandiose every time. It is built at a level lower than the surrounding land to teach a lesson of egalitarianism and humility. The sanctum sanctorum rises from the center of a sacred pool or Sarovar. Built in the 1577 the tomb is gilded with pure gold that weighs about 750 Kg. Akin to entering any Gurudwara you have to cover your head and wash your feet at the entrance. After a darshan of the revered Guru Granth Sahib which is placed below bejeweled covers head out to have the Khada Prasad and then to have the Guru ka Langer which serves people from all walks of life all 365 days.
A quick walk across the markets in Amritsar will leave you with ample choices to buy colorful Phulkari fabrics, top of the line dry fruits some of which comes from Pakistan and a variety of Punjabi pickles, papads and other eatables. In every form the city is a pure bliss…. The icing on the cake had to be the Amritsari Kulcha at Bhai Kulwant Singh Kulchain Wale near the golden temple. We headed off to the station to comfortably board the Swarn Shatabdi on our way back to Delhi and carry fond memories for a lifetime.
